cocktails in context: the absinthe frappé
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What’s more spooky than bright and green cocktail that threatens poison, hallucinations, and death? Not much! Luckily for us, any threat of today’s Cocktail in Context bringing us to our untimely death are ultimately empty.
The absinthe frappé
An absinthe frappé in front of palm reading art on a bar cart
About the absinthe frappé
The Absinthe Frappé was historically, somewhat amusingly, a breakfast drink! I suppose there are lot of herbs involved but I can think of few things that would be a more wild way to start the day. The 1800’s hit different I suppose! This pick me up is cold, refreshing, strong, and favored by the likes of Oscar Wilde and Mark Twain.
It was created in 1874 by Cayetano Ferrer at Alex’s Coffee House in New Orleans. The coffee house then became The Absinthe Room, and is now known as the Old Absinthe House! It has even had a song written about it (Glen Mac Donough, 1904).
“When life seems gray and dark the dawn and you are blue
There is they say on such a morn one thing to do
Rise up and ring, a bellboy call to you straight way
And bid him bring a cold and tall absinthe frappe”
Absinthe Frappé
What is absinthe, and does it make you hallucinate?
The main ingredient, absinthe, has a long history of being beloved by artists and writers. However, in 1912, the United States banned the sale of absinthe due to reports that wormwood, a primary ingredient, caused hallucinations, and frankly that tracks with it being loved by the hedonist likes of Hemingway, Wilde, and Lautrec. When I visited Paris in 2006 with my mother I begged her to let us try it, but she was not having it. Which, okay fair, I am not sure I would give my 16 year old daughter a notorious liquor, but I was pretty upset at this injustice. Luckily, we have since discovered that wormwood does not in fact come with hallucinations and death, they lifted the ban a year later, and now we can enjoy absinthe in the States as well.
La Palette, Paris
Absinthe has a primarily anise flavor, which many associate with black licorice. It is pretty high ABV, which may explain the concern over the effects of drinking it if folks were throwing it back at breakfast the way we throw back lattés.
My history with absinthe
I have no idea if I objectively love absinthe, because I fell so in love with it years before I ever had a chance to try it. There was no way I was going to not enjoy drinking it after hearing about the ways it intersected with artists and after singing along with Moulin Rouge over and over as a teen. I love the ritual, the history, the scandal, the green fairy - all of it! My love for it likely also contributes to the sazarac being one of my go to drinks in a solid cocktail bar.
The first time I tried it was in US and remember thinking it didnt really count because it didn’t contain wormwood - this is back when we still thought wormwood in high enough quantities would make you hallucinate.
When I had it in Paris for the first time I was alone in a bar on the Left Bank, and I asked for it prepared traditionally. The pure glee I felt sitting with my own absinthe fountain at 23 years old after years of wanting to be there was super cool. I was couchsurfing and had no money, so this moment of indulgence really stands out!
When I was in graduate school in Denver I started to notice absinthe popping up a bit more often. I found the Golden Moon speakeasy, I went on dates at À Côte bar (closed now unfortunately), searched out Leopold Brothers absinthe in bars all over town (also a great absinthe!!), and reveled in my newfound home.
Our first Christmas together, my husband got me my own absinthe fountain and glasses, which I absolutely adore. When we went to New York that same Christmas we went to Maison Premiere in Brooklyn and I nearly lost my mind with joy sitting at the bar remembering Paris with the man I was going to marry. A few years later we battled colds while drinking absinthe at Absintherie in Prague. All of these moments have truly stood out in my life because of this unique and storied drink.
Absintherie, Prague, CZ
Art inside the absintherie
Outside Absintherie in Prague
Best absinthes for an absinthe frappé or sipping
When choosing absinthe, never go neon green. The only way that is achieved is by food dye, and it’s usually a sign of a not great absinthe. Here are a few of my favorites:
Golden moon - I love this absinthe so much! I found this in the speakeasy that makes it right outside Denver in Golden, CO.
St george - Another excellent option from the States (San Francisco) ! St George spirits are all really delicious, and their absinthe is no exception! This is what i used today.
Butterfly - Met this incredible classic absinthe from Switzerland in one of my husband and my favorite spots in Vegas, the Velveteen Rabbit.
Pernod - Another classic! You can’t go wrong with Pernod (Switzerland)
You may notice from the above list that absinthe, especially the good stuff, can be expensive. However, it tends to last awhile. Even in this drink where it is the star we are only using 1 oz, and it usually works more as a complement to another liquor with a bar spoon or a little swirl in the glass of a cocktail like the sazarac. Do you have a favorite absinthe? Let me know in the comments!
How to make an absinthe frappé at home
Grab an absinthe, collins, or julep glass and fill it halfway with ice. Add absinthe and simple syrup to a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake until chilled, about 12 seconds, and strain into your glass. Stir, fill the rest of the glass with crushed ice, and garnish heavily with mint. Enjoy!
Other absinthe cocktails to make at home
death in the afternoon cocktail
An absinthe frappé on bar cart
Absinthe Frappé
Recommended Tools for an absinthe frappé
set of absinthe glasses at amazon or sur la table - for a classic look
absinthe spoon - love this leaf design!
julep glass - the perfect fit for this cocktail!
home bar tools - everything you need to get started!